Key points
Europe is on the brink of a billion-euro textile recycling revolution, with a new Finnish research project highlighting the vast potential in transforming waste into valuable resources. Despite rapid advancements in recycling technologies, the journey is being slowed down by insufficient regulations and the complicated nature of textile waste.
“Every year, around 10 billion kilograms of textile waste are thrown away across Europe. With recycled fibers fetching between €2 and €3 per kilogram, the business potential is staggering,” shared Ali Harlin, a Research Professor at VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland.
At present, only about one percent of textiles worldwide are recycled into new materials. Harlin points out that this dismal figure is largely due to the variety of textile materials and the lack of strong regulatory frameworks.
EU's push for stronger regulations
The European Union is currently updating the Waste Framework Directive, which will impose Producer Responsibility on the textile sector. This means that textile companies will need to take charge of and finance their own recycling efforts.
“The EU is at the forefront of textile recycling regulations globally, but the pace of progress is still sluggish. We need solid regulations in place before we can see a significant uptick in recycling rates,” Harlin noted.
Recycling with a focus on ‘minimal processing'
For over ten years, Finland’s Telaketju network, which includes research institutions and textile companies, has been working on solutions to tackle the industry's waste issues. The recently wrapped-up Telavalue project emphasized sustainability and effective recycling practices.
Pirjo Heikkilä, Principal Scientist at VTT, emphasized that recycling should always follow the principle of minimal processing.
“When a textile can’t be repaired or reused anymore, the best option is mechanical fiber recycling—where fabrics are shredded into fibers for reuse in new textiles. If the materials are really worn out or of low quality, chemical recycling comes into play, breaking down fibers all the way to the polymer or even monomer level,” Heikkilä explained.
The Telavalue project looked into recycling methods by considering factors like value, quality, processing volume, costs, and environmental impact.
Reviving Europe’s textile industry
Harlin thinks that boosting recycling efforts could breathe new life into textile production in Europe. While Northern and Western Europe are at the forefront of technological innovation, the manufacturing know-how is mainly found in Eastern and Southern Europe. Creating a unified, pan-European recycling system will need teamwork.
“Single countries are too small to go it alone. Europe could support five to ten chemical recycling plants, each backed by about ten mechanical fiber plants,” Harlin estimated.
Quick advancements—but fast fashion is still a hurdle
Textile recycling technology has made great strides. Cotton is already being recycled effectively—take the Infinited Fiber Company, for instance, which is setting up a new fiber factory in Kemi, Finland. New methods for separating cotton from polyester are on the rise, and chemical processes used in PET bottle recycling are being adapted for pure polyester recovery.
“Used textiles can be turned into new fabrics, nonwovens, vehicle sound insulation, or even parts for wind turbine blades. When mixed with concrete, textile fibers can help make structures lighter and more fire-resistant. In asphalt, they can reduce rutting,” Harlin noted.
However, the surge of low-quality ultra-fast fashion presents a significant challenge, as cheap, mixed-composition textiles are tough to recycle profitably. On the other hand, the workwear sector is in a better spot thanks to its service-oriented model.
“Workwear is usually handled as a service, which guarantees top-notch materials, maintenance, and repairs. This approach simplifies the recycling process at the end of a product's life since the fiber composition is well understood,” explained Heikkilä.
Eetta Saarimäki, a Senior Scientist at VTT, added that not all complex or blended materials can be transformed into new textiles. “However, through thermo-mechanical recycling, we can still repurpose these materials into composite products, giving them a valuable second chance,” she pointed out.
About the research
The Telavalue research project was a collaborative effort between VTT, LAB University of Applied Sciences, and Turku University of Applied Sciences, supported by funding from Business Finland and 17 industry partners. This initiative is part of the ExpandFibre ecosystem led by Metsä Group and Fortum.
Ongoing research into textile recycling is being carried out through the EU-funded tExtended and PESCO-UP projects, which aim to evaluate the costs and environmental impacts associated with various recycling technologies.
